Finding Your Way
Long before I thought of myself as a counselor, pastor, coach, or author, I was a Boy Scout. I started as a Cub Scout, moved through Webelos, and eventually earned my Eagle Scout badge in 1990. I was also involved in the Order of the Arrow and participated in Fancy Feather dancing. Scouting gave me an appreciation for the outdoors and taught me a collection of practical skills that have stayed with me throughout my life.


One of my favorites was orienteering.
There was something satisfying about standing in the woods with a map and compass, determining where you were, figuring out where you needed to go, and then finding your way there. Orienteering is more than simply knowing which direction is north. It is the skill of determining your position, establishing a direction of travel, and navigating from one location to another.
Modern technology has made navigation remarkably easy. A GPS device or smartphone can tell us where we are and often give us turn-by-turn directions to wherever we want to go. Even so, I still think there is something valuable about knowing how to find your way with a simple compass.
So let’s go back to the basics.

Understanding Your Compass
A basic orienteering compass doesn’t have to be complicated, but it helps to understand what the different parts are designed to do.
Magnetic Needle
The magnetic needle is the part that points toward magnetic north. On most compasses, the red end of the needle indicates north.
Baseplate
The baseplate is the clear, flat portion of the compass. Because it is transparent, you can place it over a map while still seeing the terrain and markings underneath.
Direction-of-Travel Arrow
The direction-of-travel arrow shows the direction you intend to travel.
This is one of the first distinctions beginners need to understand. The magnetic needle tells you where magnetic north is; the direction-of-travel arrow tells you where you want to go. They serve two completely different purposes.
Rotating Bezel
The rotating bezel, sometimes called the compass housing, is marked in degrees from 0° through 360°. This allows you to establish a bearing, which gives you a precise direction of travel.
Orienting Arrow
The orienting arrow is located inside the compass housing and is used to align the compass with the magnetic needle.
This is where the familiar Scout phrase comes in:
“Red in the shed.”
The red end of the magnetic needle goes inside the orienting arrow.
Finding Direction
Before you can navigate, you need to know which way you’re facing. Hold the compass reasonably flat and allow the magnetic needle to settle. The red end will point toward magnetic north.
Once you have north, you can identify the other primary directions:
- North = 0° or 360°
- East = 90°
- South = 180°
- West = 270°
The spaces between these primary directions can also be expressed in degrees. For example, 45° is northeast, 135° is southeast, 225° is southwest, and 315° is northwest.
That ability to express direction in degrees is what makes a compass more precise than simply saying, “Go that way.”
What Is a Bearing?
A bearing is simply a direction expressed in degrees. Instead of telling someone to walk northeast, you might tell them to travel on a bearing of 45°. That gives you a specific direction rather than a general one.
Suppose you want to travel on a bearing of 70°. Set the compass so that 70° lines up with the direction-of-travel arrow. Then turn your body until the red end of the magnetic needle lines up with the orienting arrow.
Red in the shed.

At that point, the direction-of-travel arrow is pointing in the direction you need to travel.
You don’t want to spend the entire journey staring down at your compass, though. Instead, look ahead and choose a recognizable landmark in the direction of travel. Walk toward that landmark, then use the compass again to confirm your direction before selecting another landmark.
This is an important part of practical orienteering. Don’t walk through the woods staring continuously at your compass. The compass establishes your direction, but the terrain around you helps you actually navigate it.
Navigating From a Map
A map and compass become much more useful when you learn to use them together.
If you know your current location and want to travel to another location on the map, place the straight edge of the compass between the two points. When measuring a bearing on a map, ignore the magnetic needle for a moment. Beginners often get tripped up by trying to line up “red in the shed” immediately, but that isn’t what you’re doing at this stage. Your compass is essentially acting as a protractor.

Align the compass baseplate between your starting point and destination, making sure the direction-of-travel arrow points toward the destination. Then rotate the compass housing until its internal orienting lines run parallel with the north-south lines on the map. You can then read your bearing from the index line.
Only after you lift the compass from the map do you turn your body and align the magnetic needle with the orienting arrow. In other words, this is where “red in the shed” becomes part of actually following the bearing.
Depending on the map, compass, and location, you may also need to account for magnetic declination, which is the difference between true north and magnetic north.
Maps are drawn toward geographic True North, meaning the North Pole. Your compass needle, however, points toward Magnetic North, the direction indicated by Earth’s magnetic field. The difference between these two directions is called magnetic declination.
Depending on where you are, you may need to adjust your compass housing a few degrees east or west so that the map and compass are working from the same reference point. That adjustment becomes increasingly important when precision matters, particularly over longer distances.
Taking a Bearing on an Object
Sometimes you are standing in one location and want to determine the direction of something you can see. It might be a tower, distinctive tree, building, hill, or another recognizable landmark.
Point the direction-of-travel arrow toward the object while holding the compass level. Then rotate the compass housing until the orienting arrow lines up with the magnetic needle. The bearing shown on the compass tells you the direction from your position to that object.

When you combine that information with a map, you can use visible landmarks to help determine where you are and where you need to go.
The Back Bearing
A back bearing is simply the opposite direction from your original bearing. It can be useful when retracing your route or determining the direction from which you came.
The rule is straightforward. If your original bearing is less than 180°, add 180°. If it is greater than 180°, subtract 180°.
For example:
Outbound: 45°
Back bearing: 225°
Or:
Outbound: 225°
Back bearing: 45°
The two bearings are exactly opposite one another.
Knowing how to find a back bearing gives you another way to check your navigation and can be especially helpful when you need to retrace a route.
Navigational Features
A compass gives you direction, but good orienteering involves more than following a number on a dial. One of the real skills of navigation is learning to use the terrain around you.
Handrails
A handrail is a linear feature that you can follow as you travel. A trail, fence, creek, road, or ridgeline can all serve as handrails.
Instead of trying to navigate through completely featureless terrain, you use something obvious to help keep yourself oriented. If you know the creek is supposed to remain on your left as you travel, for example, it becomes a reference point that helps confirm you are still moving in the right direction.
Catching Features
A catching feature is something beyond your destination that tells you when you have gone too far.
Suppose your destination is a small trail crossing. That crossing might be difficult to identify precisely, but a road farther beyond it could serve as your catching feature. If you reach the road, you know you have passed the intended destination and need to correct your course.
The idea is simple: don’t just know where you are going. Know what will tell you that you’ve gone too far.
Attack Points
Sometimes your final destination is difficult to identify from a distance. Rather than trying to navigate directly to a small or indistinct target, it can be easier to navigate first to a larger, easily recognized feature nearby.
That feature becomes your attack point.
Once you reach it, you can make a shorter and more precise approach to your actual destination. Instead of solving the hardest navigational problem all at once, you break it into manageable pieces.
Aiming Off
Aiming off is another useful technique, and it sounds a little strange until you understand why it works.
Suppose you need to reach a stream, but once you reach the stream you need to know whether to turn left or right to reach your destination. If you aim directly at the stream, you may arrive at it without knowing which direction your destination lies.
Instead, intentionally aim slightly to one side.
When you reach the stream, you already know which direction you need to turn. The small intentional error has actually made the next decision easier.
Good navigation isn’t always about traveling in the most direct possible line. Sometimes a deliberate adjustment gives you greater certainty when you reach your next decision point.
The Problem With Walking in a Straight Line
Here’s something that surprised me when I first learned about practical navigation: human beings are not very good at walking perfectly straight for long distances without some kind of reference.

Even small differences in stride can create significant drift. Imagine that your left stride is 30 inches and your right stride is 30.5 inches. That half-inch difference seems insignificant, but if your body consistently moves slightly differently on one side, you can gradually begin to curve rather than travel in a straight line.
A variety of other factors can contribute as well, including unequal leg strength, previous injuries, differences in joint mobility, balance, vision, terrain, and fatigue.
The important lesson is that small directional errors accumulate.
You may barely notice a deviation over ten feet. Over a much longer distance, however, that same error can become substantial. This is one reason people navigating without reliable landmarks can gradually drift off course or even begin walking in circles.
It is also a good reminder that confidence and accuracy are not the same thing. You can feel like you’re walking straight and still be moving farther away from where you intended to go.
Common Beginner Mistakes
When learning compass navigation, a few mistakes show up repeatedly.
Holding the compass tilted. The compass needs to be reasonably level so the needle can move freely.
Confusing the arrows. The magnetic needle points toward magnetic north. The direction-of-travel arrow shows where you want to go.
Forgetting magnetic declination. Depending on the distance and the level of precision required, the difference between true north and magnetic north can matter.
Staring at the compass while walking. Establish your direction, then use landmarks and terrain to navigate. Check the compass again when you need to confirm your course.
Reading the bearing backward. A 180° mistake can send you confidently in exactly the wrong direction.
That last mistake may be the most humbling. It is entirely possible to be very confident, very intentional, and very wrong.
A Simple Practice Exercise

You don’t need a wilderness expedition to begin practicing.
Find an open area where you can safely walk a reasonable distance. Start by determining north, then set your compass to a bearing of 90° and walk approximately 100 yards. Stop, set the compass to the back bearing of 270°, and see if you can return to your starting point.
Once you are comfortable with that, practice with bearings of:
- 45°
- 135°
- 225°
- 315°
As you become more comfortable, move your practice into an area with trees and other terrain features. Instead of simply following a bearing across an open space, begin using landmarks as part of your navigation. Choose a tree or another recognizable feature, travel to it, confirm your direction, and then select your next landmark.
You’re practicing more than the mechanics of using a compass. You’re learning how to maintain orientation while moving through an environment that can make staying on course surprisingly difficult.
The Three-Leg Triangle Challenge
Want a fun, hands-on test of your accuracy? Try the classic geometric triangle exercise in your backyard or an open park.

Start by placing a small marker, such as a coin, hat, or stick, on the ground at your feet. This is your starting point.
Set your compass to 0° (North) and walk 50 paces, counting every time your left foot hits the ground. Stop there.
Next, add 120° to your bearing. Set the compass to 120° (Southeast) and walk another 50 paces.
Finally, add another 120°. Set the compass to 240° (Southwest) and walk your final 50 paces.
If your bearings were precise and your pace remained consistent, you should end up standing very close to your original marker.
This exercise is a great illustration of how small errors accumulate. A slight error on the first leg becomes part of the starting point for the second leg, and another small error gets carried into the third. By the time you complete the triangle, you can see just how much precision matters.
It also makes a simple point that is easy to understand once you’ve experienced it: knowing where you intended to go doesn’t guarantee that you actually got there.
Why I Still Like Orienteering
I learned compass navigation as a Boy Scout more than three decades ago, but I still appreciate the skill. Maybe part of that is simply nostalgia. I still enjoy being outdoors, and there is something satisfying about using a simple tool to solve a practical problem.
But I think there is something deeper about knowing how to find your way.
A compass doesn’t eliminate obstacles. It doesn’t tell you whether the trail ahead will be easy, and it doesn’t remove the need to pay attention. What it does is give you a reliable reference point.
Sometimes that’s exactly what we need.
The woods can teach us a lot about finding our way.
Interested in the life lesson behind compass navigation? Read the companion article, “The Compass Check: Staying on Course When Small Deviations Add Up.”

I started by putting vegetable oil on a cotton rag and rubbing the entire inside of the pit. After this was done it was time to light a fire. I built the fire in the fire box and let it go. I let the temperature stay around 250 ( most air vent s were closed) and let it go that way for an hour or more. I then opened all the vents and let the temperature rise. My intent was just to get to 45oand let it stay there for a bit before raising the temp. Well it is a new pit and some trial and error ensued with the temp quickly climbing to 500. This is perfectly okay. Some tutorials actually say just set it above 400 and let it go for 30-45 minutes. I am a firm believer in low temp and longer cooking times and well some of that idea flows over into the way I season my pits. It didn’t take much closing to get the temp back down.
I want to point out, depending on how the paint quality , the heat will cause some flaking on the outside of the grill, especially on the fire box if it has an off set firebox. This is okay. If it bugs you, you can always purchase high temperature grill paint and touch it up. It should go with out needing to be said, but obviously wait for it to completely cool before attempting to repaint. Also wait for it to dry before grilling again.
Time to cook some meat.I fired up the main area with charcoal and waited for the coals to completely ignite and become ready. I then started off the initial cooking with grilling one of my favorite burger recipes (recipe below).
was a successful maiden trip with the new pit. All the food possessed excellent flavors. The friends and family all enjoyed themselves, so mission accomplished and I am confident that this pit’s future is indeed very bright as age will only improve the seasoning.
Fire, arguably man’s most useful primitive skill, is still one of the most important bush craft or outdoorsman skills. From starting grills, warming up a house with a fireplace, burning off trash and garbage, the productive uses of fire are numerous. In a survival situation, the presence of a fire is a game changer. With benefits that include its’ ability to help regulate core body temperature, water purification, cooking, and the sheer psychological boost that just having a fire brings, fire craft is a skill ev
ery individual needs.
Back in Boy Scouts, we would have one-match competitions as p
ou should never be caught with just one match. Heck you should never be caught out with just one way to start a fire. A common motto in the survival and bush craft world states :”two is one, one is none.”

h natural and man-made. Natural tinder would include dry grass or leaves, wood shavings, feather sticks, Cattail fluff, lighter wood,etc.
ves useful especially when everything is damp. Wet tinder will not light.
This is what keeps the fire burning nice and hot and for as long as you keep giving it fuel. This does not have to be giant logs, think about the size of your forearm or wrist. Remember, the larger the log, the longer it will take to start burning. When building a fire you are always going from smaller pieces to larger.


Depending on the type of source and tinder, you may need to gently blow on your ember as you add the kindling to this in order to coax the flame. As the flame grows, slowly add more kindling and ultimately fuel wood creating a larger and larger fire until you reached the desired size based on your needs. It is important to not go too fast when adding wood. Let the the kindling have time to ignite and have create a good base with a decent amount of kindling burning before moving up to the fuel wood. The fuel wood will take longer to ignite and therefore the kindling must keep the flame going during this time.


There are many types of cordage from both natural and man made materials.

braided sheath. All this and it is still a very small size. The beauty of it is due to it’s construction. You can take a piece apart and have 7 x the length of the cut portion in a smaller diameter cordage than can now be used for sewing repairs, or a number of projects well as the sheath it rests inside. This greatly increases the usability of the paracord. A good rule of thumb regarding items to carry with you out into the woods is for it to have multiple purposes. Since the paracord itself offers more than on size of cordage, it is an excellent item to carry. I like to replace my shoe laces with paracord so that I always have some on me. If I need to use the cordage, I can take it apart and still have the sheath to lace up my shoes. If I can only have one type of cord, more often than not I choose paracord.
You can get 1,000 ft for around $15.00. This line is smaller than paracord, so you can carry more of it. However it does not break down into multiple sizes. It also has a lower weight capacity usually being 150 to 350 lbs depending on the brand and size of bank line.
